Buttons & layouts

It only changes how the buttons are drawn and labelled on screen — the key codes underneath are identical. Pick whichever matches the pad in your hands so the labels line up; if none of them does, Others Gamepad works for every controller.

A and B (and X and Y) sit in swapped physical positions on Nintendo-style pads compared with Xbox ones, so the same key code lands somewhere else on screen. That is a labelling difference, not a fault. Key History shows the real key code and name for every press, which is the reliable way to check a mapping.

Android intercepts that button at system level and never passes it on, so no app can test it — your controller is fine. The same applies to the volume keys on some pads. Everything else, including Share and Capture on most models, comes through normally.

Press the stick straight down until it clicks; the travel is deep on some pads and an angled push often misses it. If Key History logs nothing at all for the click, the switch under that stick is probably worn.

Clicks per second — how many times a button fires each second. It is there to verify turbo and rapid-fire pads: hold the button with turbo on and the reading gives you the real rate. On a normal pad it also exposes double-firing, where one press registers twice.

Then the pad is fine — the game simply never listens for controller input and only accepts taps on the screen. Nothing you change on the pad or in Android settings will fix that. What does work is a key mapper: it sits on top of the game and turns each button, stick and trigger into a touch on the spot you choose, so a touch-only game plays like it had controller support all along.